How to Give Your Christmas Tree Lights a Bokeh Effect (Blurry Circle Background) Here are photo examples in conditions from overcast outside, to twilight/after sunset to when it’s totally dark outside – see settings below each photo. It’s all in the camera settings! The longer the photo processes, the more light it’s gathering and emitting from those lights. I also often get questions about whether I’ve added additional lights to my trees as sometimes they seem to be way brighter or glow from within.
Most of my twinkle light photos have an ISO of 100, aperture of f/13-f/16, and will vary the greatest in shutter speed depending on how light/dark it is outside/inside.Focus on the tree/whatever subject has the light strands.Set a small aperture (make the lens hole small) to minimize depth of field and get your photo as crisp as possible.The darker it is outside, the easier it is to set your camera to have a slow shutter speed without the photo getting overexposed.I try to stick with 100 – occasionally 200 if it’s pitch black outside. You can’t pull this off while holding your camera. Here’s how I make that happen for as long as possible: In my experience, getting that starburst effect that makes it look like your Christmas tree lights are twinkling comes down to how long the shutter stays open.
Click HERE for full disclosure.* How to Make Your Christmas Tree Lights Twinkle I’m not sure of the scientific reason of why the can look different and why they can read green in photos but I can’t always make LED lights do what clear, warm, incandescent bulbs do.
And, some LED photograph better than other LED. Another important thing to note- incandescent bulbs photograph way better than LED. Also, all the lighting conditions for these photos vary – that means, my exact camera settings may be different than yours, depending on your setup/lighting/etc. If you’re looking for your first lens beyond your kit lens, this is the one I would recommend, without a doubt. You can still use a wide angle lens but I prefer the 50 mm when possible. With all the photos you’ll see in the post, I’ve used my 50 mm prime lens ( HERE). But, don’t count on this to be a comprehensive camera tutorial – there are a ton of resources out there that will get you fixed right up ? In this post, you’ll see I don’t use a lot of technical terminology – I know the result I’m looking for and generally, what settings to move up or down to help get me there. I rely on using Lightroom for editing but I haven’t come across a program/app in the world that will magically fix everything if the original photo isn’t taken somewhat properly.
I’ve literally Googled my way around my basic little Nikon D3200 since getting it three years ago - I’m always learning, adjusting, and trying to figure out ways to better do things. I use the same camera I’ve had since around when I started the blog and everything I know about photography is self taught. But, if you have similar, basic camera equipment to what I have, it’s not difficult to catch on once you start practicing. So, I can’t speak to whether there’s a way to achieve similar photo results in that way.
The bad news – no, I don’t use an app and I don’t use an iPhone. From blurred bokeh backgrounds to super sharp tree images that look like the lights are sparkling, I’ve been asked about tips, settings, and if there’s an app I use. Over the past couple of years, I’ve received a lot of questions about how I take pictures of Christmas tree lights.